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Premiere Vision, Paris, France, 4-7 October 2001

The autumn/winter fabrics at Premiere Vision were variations on the themes that we expected with a few surprises along the way.  I was looking for new denim, corduroy, lace and other key-trend fabrics and I wasn’t disappointed!

SEQUIN
Under the heading “controlled worn looks” I spied a chunky-woven, slubby tweed highlighted with strands of tiny sequins by MALHIA (F) who also showed a version with tiny black and white striped sequins.  I saw the printing of sequins in a few other places JAKOB SCHLAEPFER (CH) showed a fabric with what appeared to be photo-printed sequins that formed alternate bands with shiny black sequins.

VINTAGED
Another of the P.V. trends was “erosion” featuring a stretch mesh devoré effect with a chunky wool design which was probably a floral but hard to make out, it’s appeal was in it’s gothic/destroyed look -  JACKYTEX (I).
In this ‘aged’ area I saw what I can only describe as fabric from the old wedding dress of Miss Havisham the Charles Dickens character.  MODATEX (I) showed a lace that I quite liked with applied shreds of a delicate printed fabric which hung in tatters, and ZIBETTI (I) featured a tiered lace which looked as though it had tea stains.   An innovative fabric produced by MARIOBOSELLI JERSEY (I) was a stretch lace in a yellowed state with distressed rags of printed jersey randomly stitched with a wavy stitch. In the same vein RATTI FASHION showed a pretty chiffon with a washed rose print.
Aged effects were achieved by strange but effective methods.  CADENA (E) produced an amazing jersey with a short pile which had been printed with a shiny black foil and looked like peeling, aged leather!  MARIOBOSELLI JERSEY (I) had a black mesh with a ragged shiny patches held with an all-over wavy running-stitch.  Diagonal beige corduroy was printed with an ‘old-skin’ print in indigo blue at INTEXA (F). 

MOCK RIBS
I was particularly interested in all the tactile ribbed effects and this was a theme that ran through many types of fabrics and stems from the popularity of corduroy at the moment.
As an alternative to corduroy I found flocked stripes that from a distance really created the same effect as cord although I doubt the durability – flocked cord effect by BIE BARZAGHI (I).  Grey flannel got the treatment at the hands of CUCCIRELLI (I) who applied a black flock in undulating lines for an optical effect.  Another flock flannel, this time with a “hand-drawn” stripe in burgundy on grey was from SELECTA COMO (I). 

COLOUR-EFFECT CORD
Many fabrics used colour to create texture or clever colour effects such as the ribbed velvet printed into a space-dye effect by PINTO (I).  Another colour-effect was a great changeant fine needle-cord in pink ground with black cording by SAIC VELCOREX (F).  I saw a really nice printed-check-cord with a colour effect that can best be described as the effect you get if you have left felt-tip pens in your pockets with the tops left off! –  SELECTA COMO (I).  I was impressed with a variable cord with a beautiful big rose print at PONTOGLIO (I).  Yet another cord that ‘took my fancy’ was a dirty-look green/blue shadow effect print by UCO SPORTSWEAR (B) and a shirt-weight cordroy from TROUILLET (F) got the dirty treatment with a marbled print effect.

EFFECTS
Some extremely effective designs were on show, one amazing example was the distressed giant paisley print in burnt autumnal colours on a leather-look by PRINTED (I).  Flocking is back in popularity with some great versions - a great ‘wallpaper’ style flock by MIROGLIO TESSILE (I).

CLASSIC VARIATIONS
STRELLA FABRICS (UK) had an interesting wool flannel with a border of random roses applied by hand in changeant satin – not the most commercial of fabrics but interesting all the same.  JOSHUA ELLIS (UK) featured an interesting huge shadowy stripe in two shades of black and LANIFICIO DEL CASENTINO (I) had a cashmere in fawn with a bubblegum-coloured chalkstripe.
A black twill crepe caught my eye with an interesting 1” multi-colour pinstripe by INDUSTRIAL SEDERA (E) and a fine bi-stretch wool in chocolate by MARIO BELLUCCI (I).

SOPHISTICATION
A sophisticated knit in a kind of silky-wet finish was gossamer-sheer at LUIGI COLOMBO (I) and a shiny silk from CARLIER (F) also caught my eye - cleverly printed with a large overlapping linear rose outline in black and light grey.  A shiny silk from CARLIER (F) was cleverly printed with a large overlapping linear rose outline in black and light grey.
Some textiles were too exquisite to ignore: a beaded floral mesh by SOLSTISS DENTELLES (F).  MARCO LAGATTOLLA (I) produced an embroidered mesh with a floral pattern and sequins.

DENIM TREATMENTS
Pinstripes crept into the denim area with a stitched beige stripe into heavy denim at CHIERECHETTI (I) and so did flocking.  HECKING DEOTEXIS (D) applied a grey flocking in random, distressed patches and another denim by INTEXA (F) featured a space-dyed flocking in cord-like stripes.
Pre wrinkle washed denim was featured at GENTEX (I) and stretch denim with a green, singed orange and blue wash managed a great aged effect at GALLIARD (F).

TWO-FACED
A heavyweight contender from BIE BARZAGHI (I) was printed with a barely discernable hazy black check with a double-faced nylon twill back.
We know that bonding is possible with all types of bizarre mixtures of fabrics and one in particular that caught my attention was a shaggy, matted fleece with a polyester denim backing at CLERPREM (I).

CHUNKY
Heavy twill featured at UCO SPORTSWEAR, they showed a deep-magenta/pink brushed quality and a box-cut chunky cord by ITALVOGUE (I) pointed the way ahead for interesting effects! – More please!

INDIGO EXHIBITION
Directions to the INDIGO show were not particularly well advertised which I think may have accounted for the fewer visitors that some stands reported.  One shining light at the print exhibition was SIMSO TEX (USA/UK) who design and manufacture sublimation transfer prints for the likes of TOMMY HILFIGER and NIKE.  One of their latest customers is the hot handbag designer ISABELLA FIORE who commissioned some brilliant prints for her much sought-after range of novel bags.

Dawn C. L. Pedersen

CONTACTS
For contact details of any of the above exhibitors please go to the official PREMIERE VISION website at www.premierevision.com where contact details are available.

The website for the INDIGO print area does not have listings of exhibitors www.lille.cci.fr/ccilille/digo00.html so to contact SIMSO TEX info@simsotexuk.com

For a list of ‘fashion trimming’ exhibitors go to www.modamont.com

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